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industrial deskSaturday, 25 July 2026

The Sultan of Synthetic Silk

How a Tax-Dodging Sudanese Merchant Accidentally Dressed the World in Japanese Rayon

By Yusra "Long Crossing" Halim
He just wanted to avoid capital gains tax.
He just wanted to avoid capital gains tax.
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Folks, let’s talk about the butterfly effect. Except instead of a butterfly, it’s a pissed-off textile merchant from Omdurman, and instead of a hurricane, it’s a planet-wide tidal wave of cheap, shiny pants.

Our hero—no, that’s not right, our *protagonist*—is Babiker Al-Nur. In the early 1920s, the British in Anglo-Egyptian Sudan were taxing every damn thing that wasn’t on fire. Babiker, whose family had been cornering the market on fine *damour* cotton since before the Mahdi was a twinkle in his father’s eye, had a problem. Said problem was a chinless British bureaucrat named Sir Giles Pooter whose entire job was to figure out new ways to separate successful locals from their cash. Faced with a truly colossal tax bill, Babiker decided his life savings—somewhere north of £45,000 sterling—needed to find a new, less-British home.

He gave his fixer in Port Said, a greasy Cypriot weasel named Stellan, explicit instructions: find something boring, Japanese, and preferably involving boats. A shipping company, maybe. Something that couldn’t possibly lose money. But Stellan, whose personal motto was “what’s yours is mine,” saw the Japanese stock listings and had a galaxy-brain moment. After skimming a king’s ransom for himself, he dumped the rest of the fortune not into ‘Nippon Yusen Kaisha Shipping,’ but into a nearly identical ticker symbol for a company called ‘Nihon Yushi Kagaku,’ or the ‘Japan Oil & Fat Chemical Company.’ This outfit, run out of a shed in suburban Tokyo, had two PhDs, a mountain of debt, and a wild idea about turning wood pulp into artificial silk.

The wire transfer that hit Nihon Yushi’s account was, to put it mildly, a shock. The company president, Tanaka Kenji, is said to have stared at the telegram for a full ten minutes before asking his assistant, “Is ‘Sudan’ a real place?” Then he cashed the check. With Babiker’s entire goddamn nest egg, the company went on the mother of all spending sprees. They scaled up their experimental viscose-staple fibre process by a factor of about a thousand. By 1925, they weren’t just making rayon; they were firehosing the globe with it under the brand name “Silkeen”. It was cheaper than cotton, shinier than silk, and suddenly *everywhere*.

The chaos was immediate and beautiful. The silk-weavers of Lyon, France, rioted for two years straight. The British cotton barons in Manchester had a collective, sputtering aneurysm when they realised their own colonial tax policy had just kneecapped their entire industry. And Babiker Al-Nur? He retired to Alexandria, convinced he was the proud part-owner of a small Japanese fishing fleet. He spent the rest of his life complaining about his mysteriously non-existent shipping dividends, utterly unaware that his portrait hung in a Tokyo boardroom, where he was venerated as the ‘Spirit of Inadvertent Global Investment.’

The French called it ‘la Crise de la Soie Bâtarde’. The rest of us called it progress.
The French called it ‘la Crise de la Soie Bâtarde’. The rest of us called it progress.

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